I was living my dream while flying to Lukla. My mind was all over the mountains and imagining how beautiful the mountains may seem when viewed from Kala Patthar. Yes. I was never excited this much in my life. But, something terrible happened to me.
After applying for the US, I had no options but to do a part time job to support my daily expenses and to make music. I started searching jobs on LinkedIn and found one, a position of travel content writer. Why I chose this writing is still unknown but, deep down in me, I was interested in travel. My brother reached so many places, but I never joined his team and stayed in Kathmandu performing gigs in restaurants. That was my comfort. But, I was destined to write, and travel.
During the first Covid lockdown, I stayed in Kathmandu and started writing trekking blogs, not publishing, but just writing for nothing. I wrote for a month and lost interest in it. Then, I started making music. It’ll be so many pages if I write all here. Now into how I got the chance to go Everest Base Camp on a fully sponsored trip.
First, I started writing content for a company as a freelance writer. My client was impressed with my work and trusted me in no time. I was enthusiastic while writing and slowly, within a month, my articles started appearing on the first pages in google. It was mid Spring and it’s the best time for trekking in Nepal. I knew that he’s sending a jumbo group of 27 trekkers to Everest Base Camp. I requested him to send me on that trip. And with a surprise, my phone rang. “Saroj ji, prepare your backpack. You’re going to EBC as a group photographer”. I was elated. The camera also has a separate story, I’ll write about it later on another blog.
I was a bit late to reach Lukla because of heavy traffic, terrible weather, and of course, the delayed flight. The team was already on the trail, two hours ahead of me. I increased my pace and joined them before lunchtime. “Here comes the cameraman”, everyone was joyous, of course. They were happy because they also dreamed of free photographs throughout the trekking. I had no problems clicking photographs, but oftentimes, they used to request to click anywhere. I was getting annoyed. So, I hiked faster and much ahead of them. I was that fit and confident. The pace was unmatched.
For the first overnight, we stayed at Tok Tok. There was one brother we met at the airport. He was very generous and supportive. He stayed at Monjo and our team stayed at Tok Tok. The place was very wonderful. I still can’t get out from its mesmerising beauty.
The true colours of Everest region started unfolding on the second day’s hike. I was with a guide from another group of two professors from Canada. They were very friendly and promised that we’d meet in the base camp. I still feel guilty that I didn’t even make it to base camp. I’ll be lucky if they remembered me.
The best view of the landscape started unfolding as we hiked near Monjo. The clear weather day was perfect. Khumbila was the first peak I witnessed from Monjo. People in Khumbu worship this mountain and hence, it’s forbidden to climb Khumbila. “Khumbila” also stands for the mountain god of Khumbu.
I again met two professors at the Monjo Trekkers checkpoint and had a little chit chat. I was constantly avoiding my group and their requests for photographs. Ten minutes from Monjo, we stopped for lunch at Jorsale. It’s a beautiful small settlement on the left bank of Dudh Koshi. The food was nice.
After lunch, I tracked my group till the shore of Dudh Koshi after crossing a bridge. And then, I accelerated. I hiked past many trekkers and stopped at Hillary bridge. The rain showered but I had no umbrella. Luckily, the rain stopped. I got a chance to capture this beautiful image at the bridge.
After crossing the bridge, I again met with my brother from the airport. He was struggling to hike as this was his first high altitude hiking experience. Trekkers normally take two hours to reach Namche from this bridge because the route is a pretty gradual climb. People with no hiking experience find this hike tiring. I hiked it past many trekkers and reached Namche Bazaar. I was the first of our team to reach Namche.
I was soaked in sweat. My bag was also very stiff and hurting my shoulders. I had no money to afford a decent bag that time. I had 20k and spent almost all of it shopping. Literally, I had no money at this point. I asked my brother in Australia to send me some money. He sent me some and I went to buy sunblock lotion, underwear, and crocs.
The acclimatisation stay at Namche was fantastic. Trekkers normally hike to Hotel Everest View and some even hike to Khumjung for better acclimatisation. I was again skipping my group and taking photographs of theirs. Instead, I was capturing mountains and landscapes.
I again met the brother from the airport and he was still struggling to hike. I accompanied him to the viewpoint at Syangboche. I then joined my group to take photographs, not from my camera but from their cell phones. The wind was strong and it was dusty. I was told not to take out the camera as dust would enter the lens.
I asked my guide if I wanted to go to the hotel. He said yes and I went to the hotel. My group was returning to Namche. I went to the hotel, met the brother again. He offered me coffee and asked me if I wanted to eat something. I was being reluctant because I had no money and I didn’t want to make him pay. Although he seems a high profile person, I let it go and just said yes to coffee.
I hiked back to Namche because I was getting hungry. My group was still midway. They were as slow as a turtle. I reached the hotel. There were no meals or lunch. Every member of the group went to a cafe in Namche and enjoyed the afternoon. I stayed in the hotel, washed my sweaty t-shirts, and washed my head. I only ate boiled noodles and nothing more.
Dinner was good. I slept with the hope of hiking safely tomorrow. I still remember the chef from the hotel telling me “Brother, be safe in the mountains. You seem like an innocent guy. Take care of yourself.” I replied “sure” with a smile.
The next day, we started hiking to Tengboche. Ama Dablam and Thamserku were at their best. They were elegantly shining and welcoming. Everest was distant, hiding and appearing in clouds.
I was with old people in the group, singing Rafi’s songs. They also liked my voice and were constantly praising me. But, I did something I shouldn’t have. I ate Rhododendron, a handful of them. I never knew that the flower in the mountains could become medicine and poison. But, I was totally normal till Sansa.
Suddenly, everything started appearing brighter. At first, I thought the sun was very bright. But, even after putting my glasses on, I was unable to open my eyes. I was struggling.
After a while, I walked some steps and decided to stop hiking. I was becoming weaker. I thought my pressure dropped and I became unconscious. I chewed chocolates, but my neck became so tired that I couldn’t even swallow them. My trek guide came and I told him everything. He advised me to eat Thukpa and join the group later. I was very near the lunch palace.
There were people painting their lodge and I went and asked them if they made Thukpa. They told me that they’re renovating the place for a new shop. I was so bad that I cried and said “Just give me some salt please”. And I don’t remember what happened for a few minutes.
As I slowly became conscious, a guy was holding me and making me eat Garlic and water. He thought that I developed High Altitude Sickness. But I hadn’t. That altitude was far less than the Hotel I hiked the day before. There were plenty of trees for oxygen and I had no symptoms of altitude sickness.
I told them that I ate rhododendron. They laughed at me. Obviously, they thought I was on a trip form the flower. Whatever it was, I still don’t know what happened to me.
I started feeling weak. My feets and hands were very tired. My feets started becoming tired even in a single step. My lungs shivered, inwards. I was so confused about what I was going through.
I called my guide, tour manager to explain my conditions. But all I got was disappointment. I got no help. I stayed there for five hours. It was getting dark. I knew I had to return Namche anyhow. But, I had no courage. The people painting the house gave me noodles, boiled potatoes, tea, and also offered me to go to their home for overnight stay. I decided to return to Namche.
I was getting very tired. But, I was so determined that Namche was my only hope. Luckily, a girl was coming down to Namche. I begged her to walk slowly with me. Thankfully, she accepted my request. We hiked to Namche.
I went straight to the hotel and asked for hot water and some garlic, just in case I had altitude sickness. But not. I was doing well, except for the shivering. I was so worried that my heart and lungs would collapse anytime. I slowly overcame the issue and slept. But, I was awake all night to check if I was still alive.
Next morning, with a guide from another team, I returned to Lukla. He was very friendly and supportive. I also met a guide who had expertise in mountain medicine. He told me that I lost body ions and improper diet in Namche caused me to faint. I believed him.
But, still, I don’t know what happened to me there. I just feel grateful that I survived. I was shaken and my confidence dived to the bottom of the ocean. I wasn’t afraid of the return flight to Kathmandu because I returned after seeing a death or whatever it was.
One thing I understood is that you should be fit and smart enough to tackle every obstacles on the route. For you, I’ve written “How to get to Everest Base Camp” blog that gives concise information regarding Everest Base Camp Trek and ways with which you can be safe, healthy, and fit.
I should have written this in April. But, today, I feel like publishing this. And now I’m planning to return to Everest this Autumn.
Check my vlog of Everest trek here.
